I am now wearing a necklace which I’ve made out of shells I
found buried in the sand on Itaca Beach. I guess these are the sorts of
activities you do when you finally start to relax. It took a couple of hours to
thread them, painstakingly, one by one, onto a piece of yarn; time, which,
under any other circumstance would be spent panicking that I wasn’t doing something
more constructive.
Italy smells rather wonderful. This is something I’ve only
just started to realise. There’s an incredibly sensual cologne or perfume that
people wear here which makes me go a bit cross-eyed and sleepy; particularly when
it’s combined with the aroma of coffee and cigar smoke and the glorious musical
cadences of people nattering in Italian. My dream-like state has been further
activated by the arrival of the man, who I now know to be called Angelo, with
the lowest voice in the world.
We went for supper last night with our new friends, a trio
of film makers from Rome. One edits, one directs and one is a screen writer, so
they have most aspects of the “behind the camera” process covered! They summer
in a rambling house on the hillside above a seaside town along the coast. The
house was built by Franca (the screenwriter’s) grandfather in the 1920s. It’s
basically three floors of Italian bohemian decadence with roof terraces galore
looking out to the sea on one side and the mountains on the other. The house
was commandeered by the Nazis in the Second World War, and rumour has it that a
German officer is buried underneath a tree in the front garden.
We were joined for the evening by a whole gang of Italian
gay people - actors, architects, osteopaths, art dealers - and we had a number
of slightly worrying conversations about quite how difficult it is to be gay in
the country where the pope lives. Homosexuality here tends to happen behind
closed doors. The clubs and bars are all in locations where people can slip in
without being seen. Of course the unfortunate consequence of pretending gay
people don’t exist is that many married men end up cheating on their wives with
other men, people get black-mailed, people live unhappy lives and only the Pope
feels truly happy. One of the couples we met last night had got married in
Spain; but their union was worthless in the eyes of Italian law. One assumes
that the Italians have signed up to various European declarations of human
rights, and it will be interesting to see what happens when politics - out of necessity
- is forced to start kicking these blatant breaches of human rights - in the
name of religion - to touch.
We sat on the terrace behind the house and ate pasta and
cheeses at a long trestle table, before retiring to an art-lined sitting room
to sing songs around an out-of-tune piano. I don’t know if it’s just the
Italians we’ve been meeting, but everyone here appears to love to sing. Perhaps
they now have the same impression of the Brits, as Julie, Nathan and I will
regularly burst into three part harmony. The great game of today was to lie on
lilos on the still choppy sea, and sing rounds as the tide dragged us slowly
back to the shore. As we hit the line of breaking waves, the singing and the
lilos would disappear into foam, and we’d dissolve into hysterics at the sight
of at least one of us being thrown off the lilo and into the whisked-up watery abyss.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: only a member of this blog may post a comment.